Trend: Ultra-Cheap Custom Clothing – How Ziami uses multi level marketing schemes to sell custom goods (UPDATE)

(This is an updated version of the original post.)

I always have argued that mass customization has large potentials for huge cost savings along the entire supply chain. Established companies like Dolzer in Germany have shown since 25 years that custom made clothing can have the same price tag as conventional standard apparel (in the 200-300 Euro range for a custom suit, 50-70 Euro for a custom shirt). Most mass customization clothing offerings, however, come in a price range of 800-1000 Euro (far beyond the price of bespoke tailoring, but with a premium to your average Boss suit).

But as everywhere in retail, there seems to be also a trend of discountization in mass customization: New players like Ziami or Aston offer CUSTOM made shirts for 29 Euro, and a custom suit for 99 Euro. Especially Düsseldorf, Germany based Ziami seems to enter the market aggressively with its range of custom apparel items. Manufacturing is done in China and Thailand, measurements are taken by sales associates by hand, fabrics are cheap and limited, but the customization options quite large. Ziami's approach is based on a multi-level marketing (or: pyramid) approach. This means, all products are sold by independent sales associates who purchase a 50 Euro starter package that enables them to become a custom shirt seller. This package includes everything to sell Ziami shirts, like a "How to measure"-DVD, one sample shirt, fabric samples, measuring tape, needles, 50 ordering flyers, 50 promotion flyers, a brochure containing all the necessary information and the official license to sell Ziami clothes. Distribution partners purchase a custom shirt for 22 Euro, and resell it for the suggested 29 Euro. In addition, they are motivated to recruit further sales associates, as they will participate also on the margins generated by those 2nd tier partners.

One of the more active Ziami partners, Stangl in Vienna, Austria, has described this system very neatly in an English presentation on their web site. And another motivated promoter of the company has even created a nice YouTube Video that describes the system and provides some insight in the rather easy measurement process.

Can you make a custom shirt for 29 Euro? Yes, of course, given that consumers are willing to wait (as for this price, you cannot use single item air-fright from Asia to Europe) and compromise for the quality of the fabric. Reviews and feedbacks by customers on the internet are mixed. Some really love the system, others are rather annoyed and complain about unstable quality, bad customer service and poor fabrics (just Google Ziami and you find numerous forums and newsgroups discussing Ziami's shirts).

According to their own claim, Ziami, founded in 2003 by Designer Ersin Canga and Philip Kamp, have risen to become Europe's #1 Producer of Custom Tailored Shirting (however I could get no proof for this, interview requests with the founders were not answered). Ziami most recently expanded its offerings to include Custom Designer Jeans and Cashmere Sweaters available for $29.95 each. Also belts and other accessories are offered in "custom designs". But what really astonished me was the price for their custom shoes which will be offered soon: "The shoe is made from the highest quality leathers to your exact foot measurements for just $79.95 ($600 retail value)". From everything I know from footwear customization, this price is not possible, neither with manufacturing in China or elsewhere, given that this is a real custom shoe.

Is this good or bad mass customization? Well, I am not quite sure. I think the danger of such a system is that it cannibalizes the efforts of higher-quality vendors of mass customized apparel. It also is a low-tech version that depends strongly on the personal skills of each sales associate (this I reagrd as the largest challenge of this model). It may also discourage customers to try more custom goods once they purchased a Ziami shirt, waited for 4-8 weeks to get it delivered, and then were disappointed by the cut and quality.

On the other hand, this system shows what you can do if you really rethink the value chain in the apparel industry. Extreme cases, as this ultra-discount mass customization offering, are always great examples to study and to test the boundaries of a system. As such a case, I really appreciate this experiment and will observe curiously where this will lead us.

Update:
Just by chance I had the opportunity to order a custom shit from Ziami recently. I will report here how this works out and how it fits. And I learned that the 29 Euro retail price for the custom shirt is just marketing: You always have to pay a 5 Euro handling & shipping fee per shirt, also if you order several at one time. And then there is a 10 Euro "measuring" fee for you firs shirt. So in total, you pay 44 Euro -- which sounds not as spectacular as the 29 Euros before (and there are many players in this price range -- with local manufacturing and professional tailors taking your measurements -- and MUCH faster delivery).

Also, Ziami's headquarters seem to make most profit not from selling the custom products but from selling marketing materials, order forms, web hosting, etc. to their resellers. These standard items are much more expensive than the shirts (in comparison).

The distributor selling me the shirt told me that the start phase for custom suits (99 Euros plus hidden costs), custom jeans (29) and shoes (79) has just started -- meaning that in the moment only the independent distributors can order.

UPDATE TWO: Eight weeks later, the shirt was delivered. As I ordered it in Europe and was in the US when it came, I only today (Feb 2007) can evaluate the fit: To make it short, this shirt does NOT fit. The arms are at least an inch too short, and the shoulder area too tight on the bottom and too long on the top. The quality of the fabric, the finishing of the shirt, the buttons etc. are, however, good. It also came in a nice package, and I liked the feature that I got an extra piece of the fabric for my pocket.

This experience reveals one of the largest challenges of mass customization: get the configuration process correctly. Ziami relies on independent sales agents, and the quality of your products will depend on their personal skills. I always preach that the basic principle of mass customization is process stability, and this is what Ziami lacks totally in the order taking process.

In my case, the sales agent was a very nice, but apparently "fresh in the business" management student from Vienna who probably lacked the correct skills to get the measurements correctly. Established, vertical integrated mass customization providers often report from the difficulty to get qualified sales persons with adequate skills for the measurement job (or they just invest in 3D scanners to avoid this problem), and so I do not not see how an independent part-time Ziami reseller shall learn this without much "trial-and-error" learning using his or her first customers.

Also, prices are calculated in a way that for 99% of all Ziami agents this business will only be a small side business. With about 35% margin (based on very cheap goods) and a personal sales process, you can not become rich or make this your full business -- and thus only few Ziami agents will develop strong learning effects to get an expert in the order taking.

So my conclusion: This is an interesting concept, prices are very good. The product I got was nice, but did not fit. The main problem: The Ziami system lacks the most important aspect of a mass customization business: stability in the configuration process (and I do not see how you can add this with their pricing model in a multi-level marketing scheme). Thus, if you order, do so only with an experienced agent, probably someone who is from the clothing business and not just your next-door neighbor.

Comments

[Vince Salgado]

I learned about Ziami in 2004 while living in Germany, as I am tall and slim and could never find shirts that fit. The first consultant who measured me went through several iterations, and although the shirts fit, he never got it quite right. After moving back to the U.S., I was excited about having the opportunity to help Philip Kamp and Ersin Canga get Ziami started in the U.S. I was re-measured an that time, the first new shirt fit splendidly, but I ordered several more and they were somewhat variable, so even with the same measurements, the shirts were not all the same. There were also quality problems, especially blistering on the cuffs and collars, leaving out stiffener fabric in the placket or leaving out stays from the collar. Some of the fabrics are high quality ahd have stood up, while others are thin and wrinkle very easily. I ordered my last shirts in late 2005 and now of the 10 or so that I have, I enjoy wearing only about half of them. I recently checked out the Ziami web site and it seems that in the US they are no longer selling through consultants, but allow self-measuring and they also offer measuring by consultants for a $10. fee.

[Phil McCusker]

I don't know what everyone is complaining about. At least they give you the option to customise for less. You pay for what you get and the end of the day and by all accounts, the suit quality, but admittedly not the fit was fine. There is a greater chance that the suit would have fitted well than otherwise. Would be interesting to order ten times and see what the outcome is.

[Frank Piller]

Hi Ann, no, I do not have any further information about the Ziami manufacturing process. The company did not respond to requests for an interview. Best, Frank

[Ann]

Do you know how about Ziami manufacturing process?

[Hoffmann andreas]

Hallo together,
Ziami has big problems in Germany.
You can contact me if you want more informations.
Greets Andreas

[Jo Gee]

Ziami - How long does it really take to get a suit.

1. You must order a shirt 8 to 10 weeks in some caes - the shirt must fit properly - so if there are any problems with the fit - very common for most 1st shirts - you must re-do the measurements and get another shirt - again possibly another 8 to 10 weeks.

2. The consultant must order a "suit kit" before he can sell a suit to a customer - this can take over 3 months, even more. Very few suit kits have come into the US and even less suits. Then after all of this you can order a suit for your customer, another 3 months at best. Do the math.

As for the other products the only things that have come into the US are initial cufflinks some taking as long as 6 months, belts and sweaters just started to arrive for consltants that ordered Beta Test items. In Europe all of the consultants who ordered black crew necks received pink v-necks.

Returning incorrect item is a time consuming process and what they do not tell you is that any returns count against you.

I could go on but I will leave it at this.