Mass Customization & Open Innovation News

RYZwear.com: Applying the Threadless Concept to Footwear

"At RYZ we’ve set out to create a people’s brand – a community of designers, sneakerheads and anyone that cares enough about art, fashion or sneakers to speak up. Together we’ll create sneakers that are designed and chosen, not by some big, faceless corporation, but by you.

Think of RYZ as a stage for designers to showcase their creativity and a forum for people to define what great sneaker design means. In other words, we just make comfortable sneakers – the rest is up to you."

This is how Rob Langstaff announced his new business just one month ago, ryzwear.com The hope of RYZ is to become the Threadless of footwear, connecting people who design custom sneakers with those that vote on the designs and purchase. I am wondering since long what could be good fields where the extremely profitable Threadless idea can be applied to, and footwear could be one option.

Rob Langstaff is not an outsider of the sneaker world. The former Adidas America Inc. president has turned the business model of its former employer upside down, Instead of assigning design jobs to inhouse designers, he is relying on online clusters of consumers to design products and figure out which ones to sell. "In Ryz's case, it's MySpace meets "American Idol," with footwear as the unit of expression", as an online report called the business model.

"The corporate design team is limited by its walls," Langstaff is quoted in the news report, "The corporation shouldn't be dictating what the consumer wears. The consumers should."

This is how RYZ works:

• Each month, Ryz will post a different standardized shoe silhouette on its Web site (a high-top shoe and a low-top shoe were the first two). Users can download the template and, using Adobe Photoshop, illustrate or add images across the shoe.
  
  
• Site visitors can rate and comment on submissions. After a month, a winner will be declared and Ryz will order a run of the winning design -- 100 pairs to start and 1,000 pairs by next year -- from a contract manufacturer in China.
  
  
• The winning designer will get $1000 for the start, plus royalties of $1/piece on ongoing sales, and get their profiles attached to each pair and a listing in Ryzwear.com's Hall of Fame.
  
  
• Two weeks after the contest ends, Ryz will sell the winning shoes on the Web and, for now, in Xebio Co., a leading Japanese sporting-goods retailer that owns a stake in Ryz. The retail price: $75 to $90 a pair.

By 2012, Langstaff hopes to allow users to design the entire shoe, from the shape of the sole to the shape of the eyestay. He also hopes to get into athletic wear. He expects to rely on customers to do most of his marketing.

Rob Langstaff is putting $4 million into his shoe startup, saying there is too great a disconnect between businesses and consumers. He expects to do $40 million in revenue by 2012 (which would be about half the time of Threadless' way to scale, but could work given his larger experience in the market and the higher price tags).

Interestingly, among some of the people helping Langstaff to set to the business is Mikal Peveto, a former footwear executive who started design-your-own shoe site Customatix in 2000. In case you have followed mass customization since its beginning, you should know Customatix. The company got much attention and had one of the best online configurators of its time. But it also did offer too much of a good thing, giving users really zillions of choices at a time when consumers were not really educated in mass customization configurators.

But Peveto believes Ryzwear can succeed where Customatix failed because consumers today are more comfortable interacting and purchasing online from less-established companies.  "Our timing wasn't great. We couldn't get people to buy because they didn't trust the brand," Peveto said. "Now is a completely different time than in 2000 because there are so many different brands that are valid."

So I am curious to see whether Mikal Peveto and Rob Langstaff's predictions come true. They took some serious modifications of adopting the Threadless models for their industry. But Threadless' customers are as much purchasing the membership in a club, a community, by purchasing t-shirts frequently at $15 a pop. I am not quite sure that this will work with $90 sneakers.

To develop however a great (and profitable) underground line of sneakers with a great story, their approach may work will. They may want to take a bit more from the Muji, the Japanese's retailer, and its approach to the model. Muji is not just letting customers vote on new designs, but also asks them to make a small cash payment on the item they really want to have in stores. Thus, they can much better predict what people will purchase later. Such an approach also could benefit RYZ as it would connect the voting much closer with the purchasing of the line.

Context information:

A good article in Oregonlive told me first about RYZ

A recent article in the San Francisco Chronicle on crowdsourcing and user idea competitions is featuring RYZ, Threadless, and a number of other companies.

My previous reports about the CEC User Co-Design Competitionand Open Source Footwear.

Invitation: European Conference on Sports and Innovation

Are you interested in the future of sports and mass customization in the sports goods industry? Then you should join this upcoming conference.

12 to 14 March 2008 in EINDHOVEN, Netherlands

The conference is an initiative by the European Action Project INNOSPORT.EU. In this project, a number of the core players of the European sports goods industry brainstormed in the last year how to create a better platform for this important industry. I was invited to join the advisory board of this project, as mass customization and user innovation are regarded as some of the key trends in this sector.

The results of this coordinated brainstorming will be presented on the conference. This also is THE KEY EVENT if you are interested in participating in European projects around this sector.

Topics to be discussed on the event:

Sport vision 2015: What social trends are there in relation to sport? What developments are taking place in health and safety aspects? What impact can sport have on the economy? Where are the opportunities for innovation? The Sport Vision 2015 which will be presented at the conference will provide some insight into these issues about trends, needs, aspects and innovation opportunities. The programme also includes a number of workshop sessions and visits to field labs about football, sports promotion, gymnastics, swimming and horse-riding.

European platform: The European Sport Innovation Platform (ESIP) will be launched at the conference. This is a proactive networking platform at European level for high-tech companies, knowledge institutes and government, with the aim of joining forces in innovation and creating new opportunities as a result.

Free company presentation: We are pleased to offer you the opportunity to present your company free of charge during the conference. Please visit the website for more information.

International speakers who have already agreed to take part in the conference are Alberto S. Bichi – Secretary General FESI (Federation of the European Sporting Goods Industry), Antonello Marega – R&D Director of Tecnica, and Philippe Freychat – Vice-president Sporaltec and R&D Director of Decathlon.

Program and registration: For a detailed and up-to-date programme, please visit www.innosport.eu where you can also register for the conference.

Further contact: Marc van der Zande, TNO Science and Industry, marc.vanderzande@tno.nl

Create the Shoe of you Dreams - Participate in the CEC Shoe Design Contest

Open Innovation and crowdsourcing finally is arriving in the footwear industry

Crowdsourced logos were yesterday, now it is all about shoes. The CEC project is a large European research project dedicated to nothing smaller than reinventing the footwear industry. My old research group at TUM is a major partner in the project, and as part of the work, they are now running the first European Consumer Shoe Design Contest where everyone can become a shoe designer.

Your task is to design a shoe model along a theme called “Original Origin”. This category of aesthetic trends expresses cultural values, regional roots and techniques and at the same time uses authentic materials and innovative shapes. The contest asks everyone to play with the theme and interpret it in the most creative, but still feasible way.

More details on the contest can be found in the CEC Contest briefing which also has the exact rules of the design contest.

Submissions are evaluated by a top-class jury consisting of international shoe and design experts from companies like Hugo Boss, CallagHan, Liitto, Future Concept Lab, and Frau. The jury's criteria for the assessment will be design, innovativeness, feasibility, task alignment, and an overall score for excellence. In addition, also the public can vote on their favorite design and nominate a public winner.

Awards are a bit technical but provide a nice opportunity for everyone interested in footwear:

The first price is a site visit with Hugo Boss in Morrovalle/Italy to get a prototype of your design as well as to gain insight into prototyping process.

The second price is a real working prototype of your design, manufactured according to your design and mailed to you

The third price is a free participation at the “Future Vision Workshops” dedicated to the aesthetic trends in Milan (also, winners of the first and second price are invited to participate).

How to participate:

Register on cec-designcontest.net and enter the “Design Studio” to upload your design. All what you have to do is to provide a sketch or rendering of your design (and a short description). All further information can be found in the design briefing.

Submissions are accepted until December 31st, 2007. Winners will be announced on February 29th, 2008.

Now, start designing!

A personal comment at the end: The footwear industry is an extremely conservative industry far behind many other industries with regard to open innovation and customer driven value creation. So it is a real revolution that they now start such a competition. I am curious to see how this contest may change their attitude and expectations – and if the wining design ever will be produced. However, the rather long contest rules and the not too fancy prices already show how difficult it is to get their commitment. But it is a great start – and hopefully more initiatives like this will follow!)

Context information:

- The contest web site: http://www.cec-designcontest.net
- Earlier post on the CEC-made Shoe Research Project
- Similar ongoing competition (open source footwear)

Puma BBQ for Millionaires: Puma cooperates with Italian luxury brand Schedoni to offer special collection of customized shoes

Earlier this week, I was in London for a workshop. As I had some time to spare, I browsed through Harrods which was just opposite my hotel. In te store, I found at least ten different customization offerings, including custom gold clubs and a “mi adidas” sales unit. But in the men’s shoe department (not in the Sports department!), I discovered a new Puma mass customization offering which was already launched in April of this year, but apparently is so exclusive that I did not discover it before.

To upscale its BBQ offerings, Puma cooperated with Italian luggage maker Schedoni, one of the top Italian luxury brands. The company has a special line of luggage for your new Ferrari, or offers bullet-proof briefcases used by the Italian secret service, and, since a few years, also hand crafted shoes (shoe manufacturing was the original core of the company).

To supplement your Ferrari (or Volkswagen) experience, Schedoni is now teaming up with Puma to offer a line of driving shoes that can be customized with regard to color. In London, I now saw this system in operation. Fitting to the craft nature of the product, the configurator is a low-tech high-touch system. In London, I could play around with the shoe building "Puzzle Kit" which allows you to choose from a wide variety of leather colors for both the outer leather, and a contrasting leather color that shoes through the familiar PUMA logo in the side of the shoe.

The Motortrend blog knows that “no more than 500 of each combination will be made, and each numbered and personalized.” But for 350 British pounds a pair (almost 700 USD), I personally found this a bit to expensive for a pair of high-end sneakers.

Like with the Puma BBQ system, the Puma-Schedoni configurator will rotate in 50 Puma stores worldwide and will be introduced in selected high-end department stores. The production process will take about 4-6 weeks, and will be performed in the Modena factory of Schedoni. Shoes will be shipped to the customers’ home afterwards.

While the press and blog reports that I found about this system all claimed this great combination, the actual display at Harrods was a bit disappointing. Indeed, they had this great leather traveling trunks shown in the picture left (all pictures from PUMA via Pumatalk.com) but sample shoes (in the boxes left and right) and leather patches were unorganized and looked used – and this even in the high-end atmosphere of the Harrods footwear department. This is a typical other example of using mass customization as a brand building exercise. Such a system does not really demand much effort in introduction, but has large press appeal and underlines the fashion appeal of Puma.

What the benefit for Schedoni is, I am not sure. They could have made this as a profitable stand-alone business with much higher margins, I believe, and perhaps a better positioning in the market.

Context:

More pictures and reports in Motortrend and Pumatalk
And my previous posts on customized sneakers.

Nike is Trying Threadless' Crowdsourcing Model

More Co-Creation at Nike

Coolhunting has an interesting small report on an upcoming NikeID project: They are offering their top-end (fashion) shoe, Nike Air Force 1, in a special co-design version. Starting 6 March 2007, users can design a custom Nike Air Force 1 using the NikeID configurator (how it works in detail). Designs are exhibited on the web, other users vote on the winning designs, and the winning design will then be specially made only for the winner, complete with bling sneaker jewelry.

For this project, Nike is collaborating with Sneakerplay, a social networking site of sneaker enthusiasts (only Sneakerplay members can particpate). While this sounds a bit like Threadless' collective customer commitment (crowdsourcing) model, it is different:

Nike takes the community, co-creation, and community evaluation idea, adds an easy-to-use toolkit to enable easier co-design (at Threadless, you have to know Photoshop), but then produces the winning design in a custom manufacturing step just for the winner.

[UPDATE: Just after I wrote this post, Bill commented on this post, saying that this is a good old design contest and not a new crowdsourcing model. And I agree! ]

Why not for everyone? Don't ask me ... it seems to be more like a clever PR pilot then a new business model. But at least it is a start and great idea to live their new "The consumer decides" philosophy with a different twist.

The Consumer Decides: Nike Focuses Competitive Strategy on Customization and Creating Personal Consumer Experiences -- Data about the Nike Plus Personalization System

During its recent Investor Days, the Nike top management board announced a strong shift of its strategy from being a sportswear brand to becoming the enabler of customized, personal experiences. “Investor Days” are an extensive briefing for analysts; taking place only about every two years (the last was in June 2005). During its recent briefing at the company’s headquarters in Portland on Feb 6, 2007, the company placed a strong focus on its new global theme “The Consumer Decides” and revealed some interesting facts about its customization ambitions and ways to sustainable consumer experience.

During the meeting, also a number of interesting performance data of the Nike Plus system were provided, the Apple-Nike cooperation that allows runners to customize their running experience in a simple but very clever way. It is a strong contrast to the exploding variety Nike is facing today, offering more than 13,000 product different styles in every single quarter.

First, Nike CEO Mark Parker explained the theme “The Consumer Decides”:

“The Consumer Decides is one of Nike's 11 maxims that really define who we are and how we compete as a company. Today, consumers have never held as much power as they do today. They have more choices and more access to those choices. They connect and collaborate with each other over the world. … Clearly, the power has shifted to consumers. For every Nike employee, there's ten million consumers out there deciding whether or not the products and brands we offer really matter. … The ability we have to connect with consumers is the single most important competitive advantage in business today, and nobody does that better than Nike. There is no substitute for connecting with consumers, but it's really just the beginning.”

Nike’s Brand President, Charlie Denson, focused in his speech on the changing consumer and the particular demand for customization:

“[Consumers] want to be part of a community, whether it's a digital community or a virtual community, or whether it's a physical community. They want to feel like they're a part of something. They want to be engaged. …

And another thing that is very, very important to us as we look to the future is the value that the consumer is placing on customization. It's a very, very important part of the way that they interact with anybody or with brands today. We used to talk about the consumer in what we thought was specific, but in today in retrospect, feels like generalities, the fact that we used to put a 18 and a 22-year old in a same set of psychographic, demographic targets. Today, I can very comfortably say that the 18 and the 22-year olds are working on different -- they're living on different planets or at different places. As Mark said, these consumers have more choices than they've ever had.

What our challenge is to keep it simple, make those choices as simple as we can, and make them personal. We've spent the last, or in our case, 20 or 30 years trying to bundle things, adding value to a purchase or a relationship. And now, it's almost in reverse, because you have to unbundle everything if it's going to become customizable.”

During the event, the Nike Plus system was described as a perfect example of this strategy. Trevor Edwards, VP Global Brand & Category Management, describes the system and gives some numbers on its acceptance:

Nike Plus "combines the physical world with the digital world. We put a sensor in the shoe that speaks to the iPod, and you can hear how far you went, how long you went and how many calories you've burned, pretty simple thoughts. And then, when you dock it, you have a world of information at your fingertips. You get to see all that you've done, all your runs stored in a very simple, intuitive web experience where you can set goals for yourself. You can see how you've progressed. In fact, this week, I think we've put up -- you can actually map your run anywhere you go. In addition, you can join in the Nike Plus community where you can challenge your friends or other community members to run physically, but compete virtually. And since our launch, we have close to 200,000 members.

What do the numbers tell us today? First important fact, 35% of the members that we surveyed are actually new to using Nike footwear. So, we've brought more consumers into our franchise. The second part is, more than half of them are actually using the survey to service four times a week. And this is probably the most important statistic, 93% said they would recommend it to a friend, 93%. This is an incredibly sticky proposition, a great way to build loyalty for our brand and obviously build the business.”

Charlie Denson describes the growth plans Nike has with the system:

“That is a dedicated consumer experience. It is changing the game, and it's creating that competitive advantage for us. We would like to see 15% of all runners using Nike Plus, 15%. Now, that's not a very big number, except for there's 100 million people who call themselves runners worldwide. ….”

So in summary, this sounds like a big success and stresses that this really has been a clever idea to provide customization in this industry in a rather simple way, but in one that matters for consumers. And with the target of 15 million users, this would be one of the largest mass customization programs ever.

In another section of the event, Don Blair, Nike’s CFO, provided some interesting figures on the scope of variety that Nike is facing today. I often mention in my presentations the explosion of SKUs and variants that global brands today think to have to offer to create appealing products in heterogeneous markets. Nike seems to have recognized that just increasing the number of variants is not the ultimate way to appeal to consumers:

“SKU productivity. One of the great strengths of our company is our ability to create compelling innovative products that excite consumers. But there can be too much of a good thing. Each quarter we sell about 13,000 different styles of footwear and apparel and because of our high rate of seasonal turnover, we sell tens of thousands of different styles every year. And there are many additional styles that make it part way through the process, but don't end up in the final line that goes to market.

Each one of these tens of thousands of styles drives costs; costs for design, development, sampling, transportation, storage and sales. For footwear 95% of our revenue comes from about 35% of our styles and for apparel the figure is about 40%. …”

Costs of samples to provide this variety were given with more than $100 million. Given these numbers, an adaptable product like Nike Plus or a truly mass customized product, produced on-demand, sounds very appealing and much more efficient.

For the full transcript of the investors meeting, go to nike.com.

Adidas Finally Adds Experiment & Service to its Mi Adidas Product – New mi Adidas Innovation Center Opened in Paris

I recently wrote about the opportunities of bringing mass customization into stores and selling the experience as much as the custom product (see the DNA Style Lab posting). Now Adidas, a premier example of mass customization in my talks and lectures, has expanded its in-store presence with a huge new mi Adidas retail outlet in its new Paris flagship store.

The 1,750 square meter Paris adidas Sport Performance store occupies two floors on the Avenue de Champs Elysees and features a wide selection of adidas products. The core part of this store is a pimped mi-adidas sales system, called mi Innovation Center (mIC):

"The "mi Innovation Center" will change the way consumers shop and their expectations at retail. It is a true first and we are thrilled to premier the mIC in Paris offering customers a whole new dimension of interaction with adidas products," Karen Feldpausch-Sturm, Senior Vice President of Global Retail for Adidas, is quoted in a press announcement. Adidas, headquartered in Herzogenaurach, Germany, plans to roll out the new high-tech concept stores in major cities worldwide, including one in China in the run-up to the 2008 Beijing Olympics.

Features of the new customization unit in the mIC include:

# A large glossy, black cube is the focal point of the center. Here, customers can customize their own "mi adidas", using now a larger flat-screen configurator to alter the details of the shoes by simply pointing a finger to the screen. Laser and infra-red technology then translate the gestures into commands. Foot scanning and pressure scanning is done as in the mi adidas stores before.

# New is also a virtual mirror where users can see their personalized shoe on their own foot without even removing ones shoes!

# But customization is not only high-tech: Customers are accompanied by specially trained "adidas experts" who, like a personal trainer, advise on nutrition, exercise and products. With a portable hand-held PC, the sales associates record a consumer's personal data and desires, creating a user profile that he/she can view at their convenience via the internet.

# In addition to the cube, the center also provides some insight into new approaches of selling standard products: At a table, a sliding carriage can be moved over a desired shoe and then specific product information will appear on the screen via Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) technology.

Update: On YouTube is now a Video showing exactly the new mi adidas customization process (thanks to Rebang for the link).

I don't had the opportunity to visit this store in person, but a sneaker enthusiast posted a nice review on the BKRW blog (the reviewer seemed to have not heard before that Adidas is offering basically the same service since 2001, thus not in such a fancy retail outlet):

"Well, to be honest we were really impressed and can't wait to test it for real (don't worry we will be in the first row…) ! The concept is really simple, it's a kind of NIKE ID applied to performance shoes. It means that you can customize our own performance shoes, according to the way u need it. You can change the design, change the colors, add some words or some special tags, but most of all you can even materials of the shoes : sole, mid-sole, chassis, uppers, studs… The truth is that ADIDAS is pushing the whole performance concept with the even way of customizing your shoes, because even being in MI INNOVATION CENTER is a travel into the future: as we said you are running on a video carpet, each salesman has a touch screen tablet to change into real time your adjustments and preferences, while you are directing your mouse on the menu screen by the means of a laser system of pointing…"

Is all this just another marketing gimmick?, asks Business Week in a report about this store.

My answer is yes and no. Regarding customization of the product, it is just a pimped up version of the mi adidas retail units that are in place since years. But regarding the overall strategy of customization, it is a large step forward. For the first time, the company is not focusing on the custom product, but on the custom service and experience users get when purchasing the shoe. The custom nutrition program and fitness guides offer much more value as yet-an-other color-option at NikeID. So while Nike had an easy win with the Ipod-Nike-combination offering individual tracking of your running behavior, I think Adidas has beaten its competition with this integration retail innovation by far – if they are able to scale up this system and deliver what they promise.

Business Week quotes Fiona Fairhurst, director of Zero Point Zero One, a sports consultancy in Nottinghamshire, England, on this:

"These days if you look around the gym, everyone is their own fitness expert. People know how to use heart-rate monitors and measure their own level of hydration …An individual will steer clear of a brand that doesn't fit properly, no matter how exclusive that brand is. If you know that Adidas fits you perfectly and comfortably then they have a customer for life."

Mass Customization Case Study Collection -- New Issue of the Mass Customization Journal Published

A new issue (No. 4, Vol 1) of the International Journal of Mass Customization has just been published (see here for more general information). This issue is a special CASE STUDY issue containing eight cases from the International Mass Customization Case Collection, an initiative of more than 25 international researchers collaborating to build a broad basis for empirical research on mass customization. The idea of this project, coordinated by Klaus Moser at TUM, is to document current practices of mass customization businesses in a form that allows rich cross-case analysis and learning from previous experiences.

We are happy that we now can present the first eight cases of this collection in one issue, starting with three cases of mass customization of industrial goods:

* APC, a provider of data centre infrastructure from the US and Denmark,
* MarelliMotori, a manufacturer of electric motors from Italy,
* F.L.Smidth, a Denmark-based manufacturer of complex process plants for the construction industry.

Then, three case studies from the footwear industry provide the opportunity for cross-case analysis in one industry:

* Adidas, an international manufacturer of sports goods based in Germany,
* Left foot, a Finland-based worldwide operating provider of custom men’s shoes, and
* Design&MC Lab, a research lab and model plant for the mass customization of footwear based in the Italian shoemaking capital, Vigevano.

The two remaining cases focus on special objectives connected with the implementation of a mass customization strategy in business-to-consumer markets:

* Steppenwolf, one of Europe’s leading manufacturers of custom bicycles, and
* Turo Tailor, a Finnish manufacturer of apparel (men’s suits).

See here for authors and abstracts of all cases.

Full text access to the cases demands a subscription of the journal. But: Due to the cooperation with the publisher, we now can offer to all past participants of our conferences (MCPC, Deutsche MC Tagungen, IMCM, etc.) full online access to all issues for a very (really!) good price. Please contact me for more information and to get the special subscription form. Disclaimer: I am neither the publisher of this journal nor do I profit in any form from its sales or subscriptions.

Related posts on this topic:

- First issue of IJMassC published
- Special issue on Customer Centric Enterprises published

PS: We are extending this collection. If you want to contribute a mass customization case, please contact me as well (Important: Cases have to be contributed by independent scholars, not by members of the case company described!)

MC&OI Interview: Sergio Dulio on Advancements and Open Opportunities of Mass Customized Footwear

With this posting, I will start a new series of interviews with key persons from the mass customization and personalization community. I plan to publish a new interview each month or so. The idea is to provide you first-hand access to the experiences of some of the leading entrepreneurs in our field.

The interview series will start with an industry where the benefits of customization seem to be very obvious, but where the level of application is lacking behind the level of available technology: custom footwear. And when talking about custom footwear, no one is a better partner for dialog than Sergio Dulio. Sergio is know to me as one (if not the) world's foremost authoritis on mass customization of footwear (see his bio at the end of this posting):

Sergio, how did an aerospace engineer come down to earth to revolutionize the footwear business?

I think it has to do somehow with my “roots”. Being born in Vigevano, a town which lived of shoe making until the 1960s and that now lives of shoe technologies, it was inevitable that sooner or later I would get involved. I started almost 20 years ago with CAD systems for shoe design, then worked with machines. More and more I build experience with shoe design and manufacturing processes. Mass customization is my latest passion.

What are the three greatest achievements we have made so far with regard to mass customization of shoes?

I would say that the main achievements deal all with “consciousness”: First, consumers are becoming more conscious -- and demanding -- of how important it is for them to have the right shoes for their feet and to find producers that really care about them. 

Second, shoe producers are becoming more conscious of the added value that selling made-to-order customized shoes can generate for them. And eventually the consciousness, among consumers and producers, that technology, in particular information technologies, is available to make the mass customization paradigm happen.

Do you see any upcoming trends with regard to new players, technologies, markets, etc. of mass customization in footwear?

I actually see two parallel trends: Outsiders who are fascinated by the idea of modernizing what they perceive to be an old fashioned business like shoemaking and who are starting new ventures for MC shoes. I would call this a hexogen approach to shoe MC. In parallel, I see an endogen movement by traditional shoemakers who realize the potential of MC and are in increasing numbers considering projects of this kind. Form the technology standpoint, I see a progressive consolidation of all the major enablers that are needed to support this business.

What are the best (your favorite) examples of mass customization in the footwear industry?

I would give you three examples: the MiAdidas initiative that I would name “knowledge and German discipline” for the profoundly thought and structured approach how Adidas applies the MC concept to demanding shoes like the sport ones.

Then Selve that I would define “courage and determination” for having tackled the challenging sector of lady fashionable shoes and for not having given up despite the sometimes insurmountable  problems a young and small start up company may have.

And last but not least the American OTABO that I would name “going against the odds” for having decided to start a footwear manufacturing business in the USA when all the other shoemakers had fled away to the famous low labor cost countries

What are the main challenges still ahead? And what are the limits of mass customization of footwear, when does it make no sense?

I believe that the basic technical “building blocks” are all available and in their right place. Forerunners have taken advantage of that. What is still missing is a widespread acceptance of the concept both by the producers and also by consumers. Perhaps an “education campaign” aimed at consumers would help. Honestly, if the concept of MC applied to footwear is clearly defined and well understood, I see no real limits to it and very few circumstances in which it makes no sense.

Apparently, mass customization of footwear is not for everyone. What questions should managers ask themselves when considering mass customization?

I do not completely agree on the fact that MC in footwear is not for everyone. Potentially it could be, from the operational and technical standpoint, adopted by all shoe companies. It is only a question of determination in changing, at least in some parts, the traditional organization of the enterprise.

The questions managers should ask themselves are: Do we know and do we care about our consumers? Are we conscious that caring about them could give an added value to our business? If the answers to these questions are positive, than companies are fit for MC.

Why are so many established footwear companies reluctant to enter the mass customization business – even if they seem to loose more ground to Asian manufacturers each year?

I believe it has to do with “ignorance”, in the sense that they seem to ignore what the business model can bring and they are then afraid by the technical difficulties; I am convinced that the more they will know about what MC can bring and how it can contribute to differentiate their offer, the more they will start to seriously consider it.

What is your personal (recent) contribution to work on these challenges?

I would define it “spreading the Gospel”, in workshops and conferences, in contacts with companies, trying to help them understanding on one side the technical challenges not be underestimated and on the other the benefits that could derive from the adoption of MC.

I recently have been actively involved in many field tests with real shoes and real consumers, which convinced me even further that the efforts are worth it. Last but not least I am working, together with Professor Boer, with whom I shared my experience in coordinating the EUROShoE project, at book precisely on the subject of mass customization and footwear.

One question I am sometimes asking myself is why am I so attracted by mass customization and footwear?  I think it is the fact that it conjugates the fascination of tradition and well made crafts with the combination of latest technologies to obtain these products in a cost effective way.

To conclude: What is, in general and beyond your industry, the greatest mass customization offering ever – either one that is already existing or that you would like to get in the future?

The greatest offering I don’t think it exists yet. It will be there when we will enter the customized shoe shops, go through the measurement and selection process with no need to testing samples, knowing that the shoes will come in time and will be good at the first go. And knowing that my shoes will certain be “made in…my country” and “made with love for the product”. Perhaps a bit utopistic, but certainly not unrealistic.

Brief bio of Sergio Dulio

Sergio Dulio, by training a master in aerospace engineering from the Polytechnic of Milan, joined IBM in 1984 as a member of their first technical support team to the 3D CAD/CAM application CATIA. During this time, he also got in initial contact with the footwear world introducing some of first families of shoe specific CAD / CAM applications. Later, he worked for ATOM, one of the leading companies in the field of shoe machinery, as an expert of leather cutting technology.

In the past decade, he coordinated a number of innovative projects for SINTESI, a footwear research consortium with the Italian National Research Council ITIA–CNR. In 2001 he was appointed by ITIA as the technical coordinator of the EUROShoE project, one of the largest EU funded projects in the footwear field, with 33 partners and a total budget of 17 million €, aimed at the development of technologies for the design and manufacturing of customized shoes. In 2003 he gets a contract with CNR – ITIA to organize, install and activate a Design and Mass Customization Laboratory in Vigevano (the capital of Italian shoe manufacturing), where a pilot factory for the production of customized shoes has been put in operation.

He currently works as a technical consultant for ASSOMAC (Association of shoe machinery producers) and ANCI (Italian association of footwear manufacturers) and helps private entrepreneurs to master the challenges of mass customization in footwear.

Contact him at dulio@tin.it or Tel. +39 0381 905827, Cell +39 335 6664251

Previous postings on mass customization of footwear:

• Open Source Footwear -- bringing customer co-design to a traditional industry
• Shoe Individualizer Selve Wins Retail Week's Product Innovation of the Year Award 2006
• Prior 2 Lever: Footwear Customization With Rapid Manufacturing
• Overview of recent customization offerings in footwear and apparel

Consumer Created Branding: Rob Walker on Minibrand Entrepreneurs, The T-Shirt Economy and Why This Is an Alternative to Mass Customization

The NYT Magazine (July 30, 2006 issue) has an interesting cover story on ("The Brand Underground"). It provides a great insight study in the world of consumer created branding, the minibrand entrepreneurs. In great detail, NYT columnists Rob Walker draws the picture of leading-edge consumers who turn their lifestyle into business.

Trendwatching.com called these consumers minipreneurs. Their scope of activity is broad, "Some design furniture and housewares or leverage do-it-yourself-craft skills into businesses or simply convert their consumer taste into blog-enabled trend-spotting careers." Walker writes. "Some make toys, paint sneakers or open gallery like boutiques that specialize in the offerings of product-artists." All of them produce products which are a perfect illustration of the Long Tail.

Most of them also serve the need for uniqueness for the people buying them. You don't purchase (often for a large amount of money) a product from a small sub-brand because you want to look like every teenager in Urban-Outfitter clothing. This makes these minibrand entrepreneurs an interesting alternative model to mass customization: Instead of co-designing an own product, a consumer may turn to one of the minibrands to feel individual. Interestingly, the categories where minibrand entrepreneurs are most active, t-shirts and sneakers, are also two of the largest categories of mass customization in the consumer good field.

Rob Walker's main theme in the article is how corporate or anti-corporate these consumer-generated brands are. On the one hand, their founders see their brands as a "cool" way to earn a decent living. But still:

"Many of them clearly see what they are doing as not only noncorporate but also somehow anticorporate: making statements against the materialistic mainstream — but doing it with different forms of materialism. In other words, they see products and brands as viable forms of creative expression."

To look into this paradox and generate a better understanding of the minipreneurs, Walker focuses on the t-shirt economy. He quotes three trends or enabling factors that helped small t-shirt labels, which pop up in an enormous variety, to become one of the largest categories of consumer-generated brands:

"One thing that has changed since the days when they [the first sub-culture t-shirt labels of the 1980s] scrambled to make a living is that Japanese consumers have embraced certain small New York brands as something culturally significant and worth a price premium. Nigo, a Japanese designer, built a fanatical following for his A Bathing Ape brand partly because he collaborated with so many graffiti writers and others who had an aura of authenticity that impressed young, hip Japanese consumers.

The second change is technology, which has allowed production to become more accessible. (It is easier than you think for a two-person brand to work with factories overseas, using computer files and the occasional package.) The technology of the Internet has also acted as an amplifier. … There are blogs like Hypebeast and Slam X Hype dedicated to this practice, reporting dozens of new products or design collaborations from the brand underground every day.

There is a third factor: manufactured commodities have in fact become accepted as quasi art objects, and there is no more stark example than the sneaker. Hunting for unusual sneakers and modifying them with markers or different laces has been cool for decades, a phenomenon defined in Harlem and the Bronx."

While other minipreneurs may not build on the willingness-to-pay of Japanese teenagers, the two other factors are main enablers of many co-creation products as well. After reviewing the story of several user-created t-shirt labels (an world that sometimes even Walker as an expert admints not to understand totally), Walker comes to his conclusion -- and provides a great insight into the motivation of consumers to become active producers:

"If the dance between subculture and mainstream has always been more compromised than it appears and if every iteration of the bohemian idea is steadily more entrepreneurial than the last, then maybe a product-based counterculture is inevitable. Maybe subcultures are always about turning lifestyles into business — or the very similar goal of never having to grow up.

And I have to admit, the more time I spent with the minibrand entrepreneurs, the more I had to concede that what they have been up to is more complicated than simply imitating the culture they claim to be rebelling against. They believe what they are doing has meaning beyond simple commercial success. For them, there is something fully legitimate about taking the traditional sense of branding and reversing it: instead of dreaming up ideas to attach to products, they are starting with ideas and then dreaming up the products to express them."

Site note: Rob Walker has a regular column in the NY Times Magazine, where he often writes about a other great minipreneur, mass customization and customer co-creation businesses. He also has a great new blog site that should be worthwhile reading for you. This blog regularly links to his latest column, follows up on issues and ideas raised there, and "wants to advance the conversation about matters relating to what we buy and who we are": http://www.murketing.com/journal.

Prior 2 Lever: Footwear Customization With Rapid Manufacturing

Volker Junior has been one of the most active players in the German mass customization scene for the last years. His special field of expertise is rapid manufacturing, i.e. the use of rapid prototyping technologies (like laser sintering) for manufacturing purposes. As a former marketing director of EOS, one of the leading equipment manufacturers for rapid manufacturing, he was preparing the market for these technologies.

But now he not just wants to see how others use this technology, but to utilize this technology by himself. He has teamed up with the British company PRIOR 2 LEVEL (P2L) to offer the first fully customizable soccer shoe. The idea was presented already as a concept during our MCPC2005 conference in Hong Kong in October 2005. But last week, the product finally was launched officially at the London College of Fashion last week.

Sure, also Adidas has offered customized soccer shoes which go much beyond the aesthetic design customization of NIkeID and others. However, until now, all mass customization programs for footwear are based on a match-to-order system: Feet of a customer are scanned, and matched to an existing last. In most systems, a different size for the right and left foot is possible, and the library of lasts is much larger than the traditional spectrum, providing a much better fit.

P2L, however, wants to go one step further: The football boot is designed uniquely for each individual player using selective laser sintering to produce truly custom outsoles and hand-crafted one-piece leather uppers. As the U.K. Blog GIZMAG reports:

"The upper is made of exclusively sourced calfskin from Italy which can be manipulated using sophisticated technology to adapt color, appearance and function to the athlete's needs. The outsole is designed using a three dimensional scan of the individual's foot dimensions and unique walking/running style. The bespoke fit of the boot coupled with the hand crafted one-piece upper (negating uncomfortable seams and improving contact with the ball) make for an incredibly light design that preserves energy levels without forsaking protection and comfort. …

P2L's system utilizes a biomechanically optimized outsole (the base of the boot) that supports, controls and conserves the player's musculoskeletal system. Individually positioned studs based on the athlete's foot structure minimize peak forces on the foot whilst walking, running and sprinting. P2L develops relationships with players on an individual basis to help reduce injuries, improve comfort and performance over their entire career."

As this quote indicates, the P2L boot is targeting a different segment than Adidas. And despite its high-tech approach, the whole system is much closer to craft customization than true mass customization. However, it is a test of rapid manufacturing technologies for the use in footwear customization. Product development was undertaken in conjunction with the London College of Fashion, Loughborough University's Rapid Manufacture Research Group and EOS GmbH Electro Optical Systems. If this experiment is successful, the development of the underlying mass customization technologies will have made a large step forward.

More information also at Loughborough University's Rapid Manufacture Research Group.

An overview of recent customization offerings in footwear and apparel (Updated)

Footwear and apparel are the most common products being customized today. I get many e-mails asking about some major examples in these areas. Thus, here a short collection of some more recent examples. This is not a comprehensive list !! If you know an important example missing here, just e-mail me and I will be glad to include it in the list. Or just add a comment below (this list has been updated on Oct 27).

The following list was initiated by the web blog 'World of Custom, An Overview of Current Custom Consumer Offerings', as compiled by Jason Davis/Merge Design.

FOOTWEAR -- SPORTSHOES
(more detailed descriptions here)

Adidas Mi (http://www.adidas.com): Six shoes (running, soccer, tennis, indoor, basketball) with three areas of customization; fit (length and width of each foot), performance (outsole and midsole options and seasonal upper materials) and design (choosing from over 100 color combinations and embroidered lettering). All of which has to be done in person at select Adidas store locations.

Reebok Custom (http://www.rbkcustom.com): NEW! One of the best configurators with many features. But even if this is a perfect example of how a configurator should look alike, I am afraid that RBK will just be seen as a late follower, copying what everyone else in their industry does as well. There are no innovative customization features from the perspective of the consumer.

Converse (http://www.converse.com/converseone/): Three shoes (Chuck Taylors high and low and Jack Purcells) with the One Star coming soon. Custom color and embroidered lettering online using the Nike iD engine.

Nike iD (http://www.nikeid.com/): Fifty-one shoes (thirty-one for men, seventeen for women and three for kids) six bags, five watches and three golf balls. Custom color and lettering on Nike’s third generation site.

Puma Mongolian BBQ (http://www.puma.com/mongolianbbq/): Single style served up at hands on kiosks open for limited times at select Puma locations. Very tactile with a DIY flavor. There is also an on-line version replicating the in-store experiment.

Vans (http://shop.vans.com): Two shoes. Custom color and patterns online with a solid and well thought out interface for color selection.

Timberland (http://www.timberland.com/customboots/): new website, now with state of the art configurator, many color options for men and women (more extensive review here).

JG Customs (http://booktown.com/jgcustoms/): hand painted, real actual personalization, small batch sizes, DIY approach.

O’Neill: (http://www.oneill-action.com/designyoursneaker.php) open innovation experiment, co-creation of new styles and design competition, but no custom manufacturing

FootJoy Golf Shoes (http://www.myjoys.com/): Popular golf shoe. Custom color and individual length and widths for both right and left shoes.

FOOTWEAR -- DRESS SHOES

Selve (http://www.selve.net): Munich based custom footwear company for women's shoes. Latest design and custom fit (based on foot scan). Stores in Munich and London. Manufacturing in Italy.

Steve Madden (http://www.SteveMadden.com):Newly-launched “Design Your Own” collection on SteveMadden.com offers options resulting in a total of 4,221 combinations. Consumers can make their choices among product features such as heel height, pattern, material, finishing and color. Special as formal women's dress shoes -- no sneakers!

Leftfoot (http://www.leftfootcompany.com): Leading European provider of custom footwear for men. Stores all over Europe, production in Finland. Custom fit and design.

Otabo (http://www.otabo.com): Upcoming US brand and manufacturer for mass customized men's shoes. Growing number of stores, manufactured in the US (Florida).

APPAREL

Adidas Team (http://www.adidas.com): new Japanese offering, create your own team outfit, nice and easy configurator

Land’s End (http://landsend.com): Nine apparel pieces (Jeans, Chinos, Shits and a Jacket for men and women). Color and custom sizing all offered up on the Archetype engine.

Target, JC Penny, Tommy Hilfiger: Similar offerings to Lands’ End (mostly jeans and pants with a shirt or two). All use same Archetype engine.

MeJeans (http://mejeans.com): A new custom jeans maker in the US, offers more than 89 trillion possibilities for truly custom jeans, self measurement, rather complex configurator, for people loving and knowing jeans very well. Very good pricing (about 100 USD per pair). [more background information]

UJeans (http://UJeans.com): Founded in Oct 2005, this Canadian jeans manufacturers offers custom jeans as well, self measurement, again only for people knowing jeans very well. Good pricing (less than 100 USD per pair) and a great "workbook" to educate the customers about eans customization (the configurator is still very basic, though).

Polo Ralph Lauren (http://www.polo.com): Fourteen apparel pieces (four shirts and one tie for men, four shirts and one bikini for women and four shirts for kids). Basic color and monogram choice via straightforward web page.

Nunatak Kobuk Mountain Jacket (www.nunatakusa.com):
Custom hiking jacket; rather simple design, style choices come down to pockets on the front or inside and a hood. choice of nylon; custom arm and chest measurements for perfect fit (review here). Alternative offerings from Beyond, ME: www.beyondfleece.com

NeighborHoodies (http://neighborhoodies.com/): Growing chain of personalization stores. Plethora of base products (sweatshirts, t-shirts, pants, shorts, hats, underwear, baby clothes, etc.). All customized with lettering and iron-ons.

Spread Shirt (http://www.spreadshirt.com/): Much more than customized t-shirts, but opportunity for every user to open custom t-shirt shop and sell their own creations to others. Great business model, and one of the largest recent success stories.

CustomInk (http://www.customink.com/): Special to this site is its community orientation: Most customers do not customize for themselves, but for an entire group. Kind of peer-segmentation.

Route One (http://www.routeone-design.com/): Custom corporate clothing.

Pixeltees (http://www.pixeltees.com): Easy and simple t-shirt customization site. Many similar sites like this on the web.

Lids baseball caps (http://www.lidscyo.com)

GEAR

Time121 (http://www.factory121.com): Swiss made custom watches, high quality, many customization options, VERY nice configurator.

Fossil (http://www.fossil.com): Very simple customization offering, but reinforcing the trend.

Blancier (http://www.blancier.com): Anotehr custom watch manufacturer, but much less choice and options compared to Factory121.

Ultimate Ears Earbuds (www.ultimateears.com): Pricey earbuds with superior sound quality and custom buds based on silicone casts of customers' auditory canals and outer ears taken by an audiologist.

Timbuk2 (http://www.timbuk2.com): One bag (classic messenger in four sizes). Custom color, options and accessories through well built online site. One of the first mass customizers in existence. Powers also NikeID custom bags.

Freitag (http://www.freitag.ch/f-cut/): One bag. Based on custom, utilizing used truck tarps for base material with online interface that lets you select the actual pieces made to build your bag.

L.L.Bean (http://www.llbean.com): Three bags (boat tote, classic backpack and messenger bag). Custom color and feature selection (extra pockets, strap lengths, etc.).

Customization in the press: Reinforcing the customization trend

This is a review of three recent press publications which highlighted or reinforced interesting aspects of customization and personalization. Together, they provide a nice summary of upcoming trends around the theme of the creative consumer. The first article is an interview with Rob Walker on 'actual personalization', the second one reports promising news from new VC for MC, and the third is from The Economist and discusses the creative consumer and user innovation.

(1) Rob Walker and “actual customization”

Rob Walker is regarded as one of the most influential thinkers on consumption trends in the United States. He examines consumer behavior in his weekly column, "CONSUMED," for The New York Times Magazine. o the following part of an interview with Rob Walker by Holly Taylor, published by the online magazine Core77, stroke my attention. In this interview, Walker draws a fine line between “customization” and “actual customization”, the first offered by companies via configurators (selection from pre-defined options), the latter an activity of consumers who take an existing product and modify it in a unique way by their own.

“C77: What are the themes that come out in what consumers are responding to?

RW: I think that the most interesting phenomenon lately is the idea of customization.
I want to draw a line between the idea of customization and actual customization. They are two different things. I think that many businesses are catering to the idea of customization. Like with the Nike iD website or Puma's Mongolian Barbeque—where you can choose colors and materials for a sneaker—it's customization, but it's within parameters. You probably have enough choices there to come up with something that is extremely unlikely to be worn by someone else at a party.

But there is a huge difference between making a pair of shoes, and working through these sets of options provided by a giant company to produce something you want, so long as it has their logo on it. I think that that idea of customization is resonant with everyone. It's obvious that we all want two things in life: to stand out and be different and to fit in and be part of something. That's not my insight, but I think that it's true.”

Walker is then referring to artists like SBTG (google SBTG and sneakers to learn more) who is physically hand painting standard Nike shoes in editions of 25 or 40: “He's not sitting around doing project work for a company and speculating or wishing that someone would recognize what he's doing. He's doing stuff that is being treated as art objects.” Interestingly however, even this “real” customizer is working in the context of Nike and Adidas. They take existing branded standard products and transform them into a personalized piece. So also actual customization builds on “mass”.

(2) Personalization catches fire among VCs

While hand painting sneakers are a trend that might have not a huge following with the majority of consumers, firms are increasingly helping their customers to become creative on their own, as an article by Verne Kopytoff in the San Francisco Chronicle reports. Here are some quotes.

Kopytoff reports about companies which enable especially personalization or esthetic design, i.e. building on the trend described by Walker above that consumers want to transfer existing standard products into an object of self impression. And recently ventures capitalists are investing (again) in these companies:

“Customized T-shirts, posters and postage stamps have emerged as the Internet's latest darlings among venture capitalists. Zazzle, a Palo Alto company that allows users to buy personalized products, announced it had received $16 million in funding from two of Google's early backers, Kleiner Perkins' John Doerr and Ram Shriram of Sherpalo Ventures. Earlier this year, a similar company, CafePress.com, in San Leandro, received $14 million in a second round of funding led by Sequoia Capital.”

At Zazzle “… users create their own designs for products including T- shirts, posters and greeting cards. The websites then handle the printing and shipping. Many people simply use the web sites to make gifts for family members and friends. Others earn royalties by selling their products or designs to shoppers on the sites.”

“The idea is more evolutionary than revolutionary. Consumers have been able to get customized trinkets at flea markets and county fairs for years featuring their names or images. What sets the online version apart is its potential global reach. Shriram, the investor, said that is in part what attracted him to Zazzle. "This is an opportunity to do mass customization," he said. "The scaling of this has been an interesting challenge."

(3) The Economist: The rise of the creative consumer

The Economist (Mar 12, 2005, p. 75) discusses how and why smart companies are harnessing the creativity of their customers. The story builds on the new book of Eric von Hippel (see interview below). Here some quotes:

“ … Not only is the customer king: now he is market-research head, R&D chief and product-development manager, too. This is not all new. Researchers such as Nikolaus Franke at the University of Vienna and Christian Lüthje at the Technical University of Hamburg have demonstrated the importance of past user contributions to the evolution of everything from sporting equipment to construction materials and scientific instruments. But the rise of online communities, together with the development of powerful and easy-to-use design tools, seems to be boosting the phenomenon, as well as bringing it to the attention of a wider audience.

"User innovation has always been around," Eric von Hippel says. "The difference is that people can no longer deny that it is happening." Indeed, it is "very likely that the majority of innovation happens this way." … In the past firms have mostly resisted customer innovation or not known what to do with it. American farmers were lobbying manufacturers to make cars with detachable back seats as early as 1909. It took Detroit more than a decade to "invent" the pick-up truck. … Within three weeks of launching "Mindstorms", a build-it-yourself robot development system, in 1997, Lego was facing around 1,000 hackers who had downloaded its operating system, vastly improved it, and posted their work freely online. After a long stunned silence, Lego appears to have accepted the merits of this community's work: programs written in hacker language may now be uploaded to the Mindstorms website, for example. …”

The whole article is worthwhile to read, get it on The Economist website or search for it in your local library. Or just read on for an interview with Eric von Hippel about this topic.